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@@alexanderzhuravskiy1980 nope not necessary. Might take a minute to wiggle the alternator out, but it’s not hard as shown in the video.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thanks 🙏

@@vince2113 that should be okay. That gets reset every time you turn off the car, and all of the IM readiness systems can’t run there cycle in a single drive. It’s the other menu you want to be concerned about. It shows long term information and will tell you if anything has recently been reset.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple okay thanks for letting me know. Appreciate the video.

@@mikman7219 the product used in this video is not a dielectric grease, it is a silicone paste which is good for lubricating sliding components, preventing metal-to-metal contact, and is also very compatible with rubber. It is the ideal product for caliper sliding pins, but a brake grease such as sil-glyde would work fine as well.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple It says "dielectric grease" on the bottle. Also they never mention the temperature interval this grease is good for. I am not saying it's complete junk but you used it for 1 year and it is black. I did my first work on the brakes when the car was 5 years old and the factory grease was so clean and perfect that I regretted that I removed the boots and the pins. The factory grease is a polyglycol (PAG) grease like trw pfg 110. It is better than any silicone grease.

@@mikman7219 I would say that more so means this silicone paste can be used as an alternative to a dedicated dielectric grease if not available. Kinda like using aftermarket parts instead of OEM, they’ll both work, but OEM is usually better. It is also worth noting at the time of filming this video, I more than likely had 300,000+ miles on my car with 3/4 original calipers. The original boots and caliper pins probably don’t hold as good of a seal as compared to when they were new. I was also driving 25,000 miles/year back then, which also adds to the amount of potential dirt and moisture mixing with the silicone. This video is just for reference and should be taken at base value. If you drive less and in cleaner conditions, by all means you could get away with doing this less often. Point being though, keeping the caliper slide pins lubricated, regardless of what lube you use, will make your brakes last longer and ensure safer driving conditions.

@@NogodbutAllahh Thanks! I’m glad you found my video helpful, thanks for watching!

@@bhupendramahawar9010 that’s amazing to hear! I’m glad my video was able to help you and keep those scammers out of business!

Thank you! And thanks for watching :)

I do not have any problems with high speed vibrations, and I consistently drive 80mph daily. There are a lot of things that could cause vibrations unfortunately. It could be a wheel that isn't balanced, rim could be bent, tire is old/worn out/out of round, improper tire pressure, or maybe even loose lug nuts. Could be a worn out suspension component. Jack up your vehicle, get under there, and see if any ball joints or bearings are loose, and make sure the wheel doesn't have any play when trying to wiggle it. I've also heard of "Road Force Balancing" being a potential solution. Maybe look into that as well. Good luck!

Looks like the tube you're speaking of is a breather tube of some kind. My guess is it controls and allows air to move in and out of the transmission during heat cycles where expansion and contraction occur, otherwise too much pressure would build up in the transmission. It should certainly be connected, and it can only cause problems by being not connected. Whether or not it fixes your exact issue, I don't know since there's not a lot of information on this little tube. Otherwise, P1751 would indicate a problem with shift solenoid valve B (12-25 ohms) and the dual solenoid (about 5 ohms) shown in this video. Do an ohm test if you haven't already. Otherwise, there's a chance these solenoid need to be replaced. Before you do that though, I would also make sure your transmission fluid level is correct and that the fluid is red and clean. Use only Honda DW-1. Good luck!

@@GreasyWop I personally like the sealed components better. With grease fittings, you HAVE to grease them consistently or they go bad sooner. If you’re able to keep up with the tedious maintenance, they’ll last a super long time. But the sealed components have lasted me a long time with no routine maintenance required. Moog is a popular brand that puts grease fittings on all their components.

you're very welcome, thanks for watching!!

Is it possible one of the connections isn't fully seated? I remember them being somewhat difficult to both remove and install. You need to make sure you hear a click from each of the connectors when putting them back in.

what you copy and pasted at the bottom of the description are just key words related to the video to draw in more viewers. There are multiple different sized bulbs, some of them being different colors, as mentioned n the rest of the description.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Ok, I guess I'm referring to the qty of bulbs, so I order the right amount. I have T3= 21 bulbs T4= 6 bulbs 74= 38 bulbs, I think that's right based on my interpretation of your video. Good video btw

@@Iamtherodlight1453. you’re welcome! Thanks for watching

@@A_reel_job_fishing about 347,000 miles so far! A lady side swiped me a couple months ago, so I’ve been slowly fixing the car this last month and hopefully will get it back on the road soon!

@@Confused20000 the overall concept should be the same. The pulley will have clearly marked lines numbered 1-6, line it up as shown similarity in the video, and begin adjusting the valves. The thickness of the gaps may vary from vehicle to vehicle

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple awesome! Just to be sure, I have to align it for each cylinder I am adjusting?

@@Confused20000 correct. I demonstrate this at 15:16. Align each cylinder, and you will be able to adjust both the intake and exhaust valve for that associated cylinder. You’ll know you’re lined up correctly and that you’re looking at the correct cylinder when both the intake and exhaust valves are loose, again as demonstrated at 15:16.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple amazing. Thanks again. Love the videos!

@@Confused20000 you’re very welcome, thanks for watching!

@@daeveonnash2368 these are not the shift solenoids, nor does p0740 indicate a problem with shift solenoids. Are you sure you have the correct video? P0740 has to do with the torque converter not getting adequate fluid, overheating, and causing faulty shifting. The service manual states the main cause of the issue could be Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C located at the front of the transmission, but it fails to mention to check the Dual Clutch Pressure Control solenoid valves A&B on top of the transmission, the main problem with both solenoids being a clogged screen filter. It also mentions a potential issue with the small single Torque Converter Clutch solenoid on top of the transmission, but I’ve never heard of this being a problem for anybody. Cleaning the screens fixed my shifting problems and thousands of other peoples transmission problems too. But the screens get clogged because most people were not changing their fluid frequently enough resulting in dirty contaminated fluid, as well as never replacing the exterior spin on atf filter, both contributing to clogging the screen filters in the solenoid. So you need to both replace the atf and clean the filters to fix your problem.

@@daeveonnash2368 there are a lot of potential sources for a leak. As far as these solenoids go, I’ve never heard of them being an issue with leaking. But that’s not to say it couldn’t happen with a faulty gasket or an improperly installed solenoid.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple got you thanks a lot. literally only video that had helped me

@@daeveonnash2368 you’re very welcome! Glad I have been able to help

Honestly, you could do this job without a toolset, just as long as you can loosen that white radiator butterfly valve in one way or another. The amount of coolant you drain from the rear engine block drain valve isn't that much to justify buying an entire toolset for. However, if you're looking for a toolset with intentions of starting your DIY car repair path beyond just a coolant flush, I would recommend a toolset that: 1. Doesn't waste any space/money on 12 point sockets. There's an extremely high chance you'll never see a 12 point bolt working on cars, I know I haven't yet despite all the car work I've done. So why waste money on sockets you'll never use? Stick to 6 point hex socket sets. You can always buy a separate 12 point socket set separately if you're unlucky enough to need them. Not including 12 point sockets will further allow the tool set to implement a wider variety of very useful tools you wouldn't have gotten before and it'll include more socket/wrench sizes too. 2. Get a tool set that includes a full set of wrenches and sockets. You don't want your set to skip any sizes, because you'll be surprised when you need those oddball sockets/wrenches, particularly on rusted rounded bolts. Project Farm made a great video reviewing different tool sets that you should check out for more information: ruclips.net/video/iEsW-eMLSbM/видео.htmlsi=t6Zh3tVgIApQJpAX Based on his review and my personal recommendation based on what I described to look for above, I highly recommend the GEARWRENCH 80966 243 Pc. 6 Pt. Mechanics Tool Set In 3 Drawer Storage Box: amzn.to/4dcULWR It checks literally all the boxes: no 12 point sockets, a full set of sockets and wrenches without skipping any sizes, wide variety of tools and sizes, and the quality of the tools themselves are above average/best in all categories. It's expensive at $320, yes, but totally and completely worth it. If I had to start over, I would definitely buy this kit. My dad got me started with an overall nice Husky set, and while the price and quality of the tools have been great, it has left me needing more tools in many situations at the beginning of my DIY auto journey due to the wasted implementation of 12 point sockets. Obviously you can never have enough tools, but this Gearwrench tool set is the best it gets as far as buying your first tools goes. Hope this helped. Good luck and thanks for watching!

Thanks. For the breathing bolt. Did you remove it completely or just loosened and then attached the tubing?

@@HydroMusicPage you only have to loosen it just enough until the fluid starts coming out. You can crack it loose with a socket and ratchet, then attach your tubing before loosening the drain valve further with a normal wrench. If you need to replace the valve like I did, it simply screws out all the way like a normal bolt

Yes, cleaning these filters can eliminate your P0740 code!

You want to ensure that you do see a check engine light illuminating when you first turn the ignition to the car on. This way, you can ensure the light is working. It's important for this light to work so when a problem arrises, it will illuminate when the car is running to let you know something's wrong.

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple what are common problems driver says it drives fine with it on could I leave or needs to be reset

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I’m buying the car Tommorow trying to check everything wrong with it

@@NateVega-jm3zf simply resetting the light isn’t going to fix the problem. The light will simply turn back on within a week most likely. Only reset the light after you’ve made an attempt to fix the problem. There are some things that can cause a check engine light but are barely noticeable, such as a loose gas cap. But nonetheless, it’s still important to fix any issue causing a check engine light to turn on to ensure no additional damage or problems arise and for your car to work as efficiently as possible

It's a very similar process, except you don't need to remove the strut assembly. Only the damper fork needs to be removed. Thanks for watching!

Does the lower arms or the rear control arms have cotter pins?

@@xortiz7077 from what I can tell as far as my car goes, the front lower control arm has a cotter pin, but the rear control arms do not.

@@rdkirk3834 that’s a very good point! Never a bad idea to rejuvenate them and maintain their condition

@@Canakar360 yup, that’s why I show people how to find their parts by entering their vehicle into the Acura website. A lot of parts are not interchangeable with other vehicles. Thank for watching!

In simple terms, if the ohm reading is out of spec, the solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced, either due to an open circuit or a short in the circuit. I doubt your fluid is the problem based on how much you appear to be taking care of it, assuming you're using DW-1. I would recommend replacing the 4th gear transmission clutch oil pressure switch if you haven't already. You can't test the resistance of these, so in a way it's a shot in the dark, however, they are known to go bad and have improved many peoples shifting. I made a video on that as well: ruclips.net/video/_I8zfFmVZZI/видео.htmlsi=K0kd0lw_bne17y8u

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple yeah I changed the third and fourth gear pressure switches less than a year ago. It might just be about that time brother to get ready to do the av6 swap. It's going to cost about $4,000 to get it and have it installed but that's cheaper than buying another car ain't it bro? Have an awesome day Thank you for responding as always

@@850CANE it's possible it's going out. You could also do an ohm test on Shift solenoid valve C (12-25 ohms) in the front of the transmission, and the Dual linear solenoid (about 5 ohms) on top. Perhaps your resolution could be a slight change in your driving habits. I can tell you I've been driving with an intermittent 3rd gear slip, as well as slow, hard, flared shifting in most gears for about 100-150k miles now. One thing that has really helped overcome this issue is using the manual sport shifter, and whenever I go to shift up, I ease off the gas in a similar sense to driving a manual car. It still shifts slow, and there's still an occasional 3rd gear missed shift, but it makes the shifts significantly smoother. If the rest of the car is in good enough condition, and if you love this car enough, it could be worth it. Idk about you, but around me, I can find nice Acuras from 2004-2012 under 200k miles for $3000-6000. You can get I can tell you on my car, a lot of stuff needed replacing around 300-325k miles, including rear brake lines, fuel lines, shock absorbers, and the fuel tank, all of which are very big and expensive jobs. Not trying to scare you, maybe your car is in better condition than mine. I live in the rust belt and these sort of things are inevitable. Best of luck to you!

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple oh wow you make me feel a lot better. Mine only flares 3-4 when I first start driving it when it's cold. Usually only one time. So last weekend I I went to the junkyard and I pulled both solenoids off of an 03 TL. I didn't know which one controlled third to fourth gear so I put both of them off of the donor car. I did a ohm test on both and they were both 5 ohms so I'll pull it off and check it again. After the drain and fill and solenoid change it didn't flare at all after much driving and testing. I thought I had it cured with the solenoid switch. I live in South Florida so not a whole lot of rust going on. I was contemplating if it started getting worse to use only the sport shift. Thank you for the encouragement I was starting to get worried since I definitely don't have the money right now for any major repairs. I commute 55 miles to and from work on the interstate and in the afternoon it's stop and go with a ton of shifting unfortunately. I have 235k on my car. Hopefully with some altered driving as you suggested it'll keep going until I have the $ to either av6 swap or find something else. I love this car though. Thanks again bro!

So you drive only with the sport stick now?

If you’re doing it yourself, all the parts you’ll need can be purchased for $40. Links in the description. Otherwise I don’t know how much a shop would charge. Should be less than 1 hour labor, so $75-150? Good luck and thanks for watching!

@@rodger603 it’s a sad world that it’s so difficult to trust anybody nowadays. Definitely inspect the car, especially the fluids. That is the easiest thing to maintain and can also tell you a lot about how well the vehicle was taken care of. Also don’t be afraid to say no to a car! Good luck and thanks for watching!

I have never broken a lug. These usually only break in instances of excessive torque, which is why torquing the lug nuts is important, but they can break sometimes due to extreme rust as well. Replacing the studs are cheap and easy to do. You don't need to replace them all, but it might be recommended because even torque on the studs is important for safety. If some studs are clean and the others are rusty, dirty, or simply worn down, that will create uneven effective torque amongst the studs. You'll need to remove the wheel, brake caliper and bracket, and the rotor. Then rotate the hub to where there is clearance out the back for the stud to be removed. Sometimes the heat shield can get in the way and may need to be bent to create that clearance. Take a big sledge hammer and simply wack it out. Then to install it, you'll take an oversized nut to act as a spacer, put it over the stud, then screw your lug nut on after that, and tighten the lug nut to pull the new stud in until it's completed seated in position. Hope this helped! Good luck and thank you for watching and subscribing!

Thanks for your reply. In my case the head of the stud crashes with the hub assembly before reaching the heat shield. I was wondering if yours was the same.

I wouldn’t recommend trying to replace the center lock nuts with the strut still on the car. If you didn’t use heat, then the nylon should still be in the nut and can retain some of its locking properties. You should be fine :) thanks for watching!

I personally haven't tried any aftermarket LED's for the dash, but you could try superbrightleds.com, they're a quality brand name company I've gotten other LED's from in the past. Otherwise, you could go on eBay and look for something that has a lot of sales and a good seller review rating. Thanks for subscribing!

Heck yeah that’s awesome! These cars are incredible!

@@marcusmack1569 I’m honestly not too sure since this car is governed at 145. Maybe there’s a performance loss somewhere, such as a dirty air filter?

Awesome! I’m glad this worked for you! Thanks for watching

Thanks for the video suggestion!

That would be a cool idea! I was thinking of doing some sort of overall tour of my car, while talking about my journey making it to such a high mileage and sharing all my knowledge of this vehicle. I have a lot of videos coming out this summer, but I'll get to it someday! Thank for watching and good luck with your awesome TL-S!

@@joegamer1696 that really sucks. Sorry to hear that. Best of luck getting your situation resolved!

@@rasmuswahrborg1214 you’re very welcome! Thanks for watching!

Thank brother!!

Thank you for the kinds words! That's awesome to hear, glad my video was able to assist you! That seems like a pretty good guess ;) we'll find out soon. I'll be uploading my first of many videos on it later this month!

Thanks for watching! Hope your CL-S gets fixed soon!

yup if I could have done one thing differently, I would have put the bearing in the freezer. But everything worked out perfectly!

@@CarRepairsMadeSimpleI didn’t mean to imply that you didn’t do a good job. You did a great job! You’re definitely a good mechanic not only do you fix it, but you diagnosed it correctly.. that’s hard to do sometimes. Nice job and great video. Thanks! I learned a lot watching it!

Wait until you find out that every mechanic (where time is money) also drops them in and doesn’t torque them either 😉

You certainly can use that if you wish! It's compatible with rubber, and that's the most important aspect to look for

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple How many pieces should I buy for the front and rear pad caliper and pins? product 5 mg

Thank you

They have different electric connectors, therefore they are different parts with different part numbers that you cannot get mixed up

Thank you so much for all the kind words! I'm glad I'm able to help lots of people fix their car including you! Unfortunately, engine swapping is something that I have never looked into or know anything about. Your best bet is to look up info on Acurazine and Acuraworld. Sorry I can't be of any help there. Sounds like it will be a fun upgrade though, good luck!

It certainly does. Foam is a mixture of air and fluid, so this video very well could be the solution for you.

I would check the engine and transmission mounts. Engine mounts only last about 150k before they start clunking, and transmission mounts have an unpredictable life of 200-300k miles before they tear apart. I made a separate video on each

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple awesome thanks I’ll check the mounts